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uncle si

Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2024
Messages
7
Location
Pennsylvania
I have a 1972 127 I'm working on foe a friend. I rebuilt the starter generator, replaced the carburetor and it started right up. Well about 3 weeks later I went out to deliver it and it sputter and refused to start. Now it just cranks. Starting fluid didn't do anything and it does have proper spark. Does anyone know what I can do next to get it back up and running ?
 
I have a 1972 127 I'm working on foe a friend. I rebuilt the starter generator, replaced the carburetor and it started right up. Well about 3 weeks later I went out to deliver it and it sputter and refused to start. Now it just cranks. Starting fluid didn't do anything and it does have proper spark. Does anyone know what I can do next to get it back up and running ?
I'd start checking for crappy ground connections or a broken wire.
 
I don't recommend starting fluid.I don't recommend ethanol in the gas.If the gas is over 30 days,I would drain and replace with fresh.I would take out the plug,put a squirt of gas in the cylinder.hopefully you followed Diggers advice,it should go
 
I have a 1972 127 I'm working on foe a friend. I rebuilt the starter generator, replaced the carburetor and it started right up. Well about 3 weeks later I went out to deliver it and it sputter and refused to start. Now it just cranks. Starting fluid didn't do anything and it does have proper spark. Does anyone know what I can do next to get it back up and running ?
how did you verify proper spark?
crank w/o spark is possible.
faulty electrical connections are insidious,
and likely for these old machines.
tell us more about the carb. OEM?
replacement carbs can be problematic.
why not clean up/rebuild the original carb? less problematic.
thinking out loud here.
good luck!
🚜💨
 
Sand the points with sandpaper,new points have acoating on them to prevent corrosion, I have a 1972 108 installed new ignition components and it wouldn't start till i filed or sanded the points
 
Sand the points with sandpaper,new points have acoating on them to prevent corrosion, I have a 1972 108 installed new ignition components and it wouldn't start till i filed or sanded the points

Contact point file, a piece of ordinary paper or cardboard, or electrical contact cleaner. Do not use sandpaper, emery cloth, or other abrasives...the grit will embed in the points and pit them.
 
if you have good spark only things left compression or fuel problem after market carberators are horrible possible water in fuel tank
 
Really, not enough info to diagnose the problem. but if it has spark and starting fluid does nothing it could be flooded. Did you pull the spark plug to see if it is wet or fouled or if the spark will jump across the gap? Was the fuel tank valve left on? If it was or if there is none maybe the float needle is faulty, or the float could be stuck. Start by removing the spark plug and checking that.
 
I'm attaching a pic to show every one where I start.This simple but effective tool will save hrs of searching.. Spark tester: attach to plug,crank .no spark?attach jumper wire from bat pos to coil pos..no spark ,ck points,replace cond. no reason not to spark (I have bought bad cond.new) Jd said about leaving fuel on,very common,not good.Pull plug tape end of plug wire to avoid spark setting off gas in an explosion(ask me how I know) ck oil to be sure no gas flooded into it..Crank a few times to clean out cyl with tank turned off...leave tank off,replace plug assuming you have spark,spray 1 sec of carb cleaner into carb,pull choke,should fire..from there it's carb ,fuel lines,and filter..all of this is assuming points are set correctly and timed right.
 

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Sand the points with sandpaper,new points have acoating on them to prevent corrosion, I have a 1972 108 installed new ignition components and it wouldn't start till i filed or sanded the points
Good advice. I have a 1973 149 and it has the original points. Still starts right up every time after over 30 years ownership!
 
how did you verify proper spark?
crank w/o spark is possible.
faulty electrical connections are insidious,
and likely for these old machines.
tell us more about the carb. OEM?
replacement carbs can be problematic.
why not clean up/rebuild the original carb? less problematic.
thinking out loud
 
Take the breather cover off and see if the valves are both moving when the engine is rotated. It should be pretty obvious if one is stuck open. It's usually the exhaust valve. Head has to come off, and valves need to be removed and have stems and guides cleaned, then reassembled with a new head gasket.
 
simple ck for valve stuck open...remove plug,put a small handle screwdriver over hole..crank engine .If there is no "whoosh"then is no compression..hence,valve open,piston not moving,hole in piston,any of the above..recently given modern mower that ran but no power: turned out it was running on one cyl,piston stuck at the top of other cyl.. screwdriver ck proved that
 

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